A friend was in Israel last year just before we left. When she learned that we were going on Safari she told us about a friend of a friend who got killed when a crocodile snatched her from a small boat and ate her. As we arrived at Kings Pool camp on the Linyanti River, I discovered that this could be a real possibility. There is something about being on land, in a jeep, that seems solid, grounded. The thought of being in a boat, surrounded by water with the potential for mysterious beings to emerge from that water - is a little unsettling. I wondered why people tell you about a disastrous consequence of a situation that you are about to experience? Are they aware that these stories are not comforting in any way? It’s like telling someone you are flying somewhere and they bring up the latest plane crash. What is that kind of thinking? An indirect warning? or just a way to keep the conversation going with a story that relates to it?

Our guide Khan was the most serious we have had, but an excellent spotter. He would stop suddenly, and we would look around in anticipation, seeing nothing, and he would jump out of the jeep, grab a stick and lift a chameleon from the brush. In our recent travels, we learned about venery - a medieval hunting term, its use to give names to the various groups of animals. For example a gathering of Flamingos is called a Flamboyance of Flamingos. On our leisurely drive into Camp we saw a Sounder of Warthogs /and an Obstinacy of Buffalo, and found a giant Hippo skull, just enormous! I can’t remember if i asked if I could take it home, but the thought did cross my mind.

We settled into our cabin with its thatched roof, double shower and mosquito-netted canopy bed. We had a terrace looking onto the river complete with its own plunge pool. While this camp wasn’t as stylishly vintage as Jacks, nor as chic and tech savvy as Abu, it had a cozy and rustic vibe with windows onto a river speckled with hippos and filled with spectacular sunsets.

The main gathering area of the camp had an open floorpan with lounging areas, a bar, dining tables and a sunken fire pit all situated on a deck overlooking the river. It also has a Tribe of Monkeys that hang around keeping the staff on their toes. While we waited for lunch, A noticed that his cellphone suddenly lit up with bars, he was excited that there was a possibility of a cell connection. The other campers immediately checked their phones, until a staffer told them it was highly unlikely they’d be able to connect, the signal was from The Republic of Namibia which was just across the river.

Our first drive in Chobe National Park was a parade of the usual suspects: a Memory of Elephants, Herds of Impalas, Kudos, Warthogs and a Dazzle of Zebras. Khan told us how zebras balance heat using their stripes. The more south you go in Africa the closer the stripes would be because the weather is cooler. Apparently the stripes on each zebra are different, distinctive, like fingerprints. We also saw two new species, Ostrich and Python. One of the guests in our vehicle was dying to see a Python and a Crocodile, so he was thrilled that he had seen one of the two so early into his trip.

The guides at every camp tell you that you are never to leave the jeep, or to even stand up to take a photo. The animals don’t see the jeep as a car plus 6 guests and a guide, they see it is one entity that does not pose a threat, so if it suddenly changes shape, they might consider it to be a predator. The drive ended with sundowners and soup at a little beach on the river. While the guides got set up, I noticed that the jeeps are fitted with a double front grill, half of which can be lifted up and used as a serving tray. It was a nice way to stay close to the vehicle and have a snack, without wandering too far out into the bush in the dark. Which brings me to another thing you learn on Safari - how to hold it. The drives are usually between 3 and 4 hours, and the only option is using nature as your toilet. The quandary is how do you get far enough from your jeep-mates so they can’t see you, but stay close enough that they can come to your rescue? I carried a Pack of Tissues just in case, but the last thing I wanted was to be found in that position when an animal wanders by.

Dinner at the Kings Pool Camp was different than the others. At Jacks it was one large communal table, at Abu you could sit alone or reserve a table for however many seats you needed. At Kings Pool they encouraged you to sit with the group that was in your jeep. That would have been fine if our group had some of the more colorful characters, unfortunately they were in other jeeps.

Khan knocked at 5:30 the next morning to pick us up. We had coffee and watched the most spectacular sunrise - doubled, as it was reflected on the still surface of the river. After coffee (all i can manage at 5:30 am), we jumped into the jeep. Khan turned the ignition and hit the lights, and less than 10 feet ahead of us was a hippo on its way to the river. It stopped and stared at us, then went on its way. They’ve nicknamed the path ‘the Hippo Highway’ - it’s their 101 to the river. And it happens to be located right in front of our tent. While it feels childish to be walked to and from your tent with a guide, you become really grateful that there is someone who knows what to do if you encounter a wild animal. An animal that has been around for 16 million years. An animal that is ranked the most dangerous in Africa. Maybe thats why Khan was so serious, his job is serious.

Sunrise! Makes getting up at 5:30 so worth it!

The highlight of the day was stumbling onto a pack of wild dogs after a kill. It seems ‘the kill’ is central to watching a predators behavior. They are either on the hunt, consuming their prey, or lazing about afterwards - each stage is fascinating to watch. The wild dogs have a crazy brown, tan and golden hide that looks like a super dirty italian marble. They have large pointed ears, yellow eyes and a black muzzle. Although we didn't see what they had eaten, we could see that they had, their hides were matted with blood which looked absolutely psychodelic. We watched them lay around in groups, until one would get up, yawn, and move to another spot and several more would follow. Their stomachs looked like they had swallowed a small ball which puffed them out them out on the sides.

Are you looken' at me? — Are you looken' at me?

We went to the lounge for wine and cheese before dinner, and to watch the action in the river. We met some of the others and chatted about the various camps on our itineraries as the staff finished plating. There was a sudden skirmish, a few monkeys hit the table and took off in different directions with several wedges of cheese. The waitstaff cursed and chased them out of the room while we all laughed. I’m sure that happens more than a few times a week.

The next day we declined another early morning drive and waited for afternoon tea and to board the Queen Sylvia, Kings Pools’ two level barge that lives on the Linyanti River. The sunset cruise gave us the unique opportunity to get up close and personal with the Bloats of Hippos and Siege of Heron all swimming amongst the waterlilies. The gentleman that was obsessed with seeing the Python got his other wish fulfilled with the sighting of a Float of Crocodiles on the river bank.

In a patch of grass that jutted into the river, another Pack of Wild Dogs barked, growled and started to circle, then chase a lone Impala to the riverbank. We were all silent and spell bound while the impala made its choice - to stay in the grass and eventually be disemboweled by the pack or take the plunge and chance becoming dinner for a crocodile lurking beneath the water. She chose to risk a quicker less painful death by swimming across the river to Namibia. We watched her struggle through the marsh, and we literally cried out as a group, cheering her on as she raised herself into the Papyrus reeds and to safety. It was an incredible thing to witness.

After all the excitement, we sat back in the deck chairs with sundowners in our hands, and headed back to the dock. The coast of Namibia was in front of us, its trees, grasses and waterways in silhouette against a color-shifting sunset.

Since it was the last night at camp for most of us, the staff arranged a special buffet dinner in the Kings Pool Kgotla - a large circular space outlined using tall jagged branches. All the employees joined together to entertain us with traditional songs and dances - harmonizing, clapping and stomping beneath a stormy moon.

Moonlight in the Kgotla — Moonlight in the Kgotla

Bird Watching:

And there are birds! The variety was incredible. Unfortunately they are difficult to catch on camera. I’m listing them here as a way for me to remember all of them.

African Fish Eagle • Blue Cheeked bee eater • Coppertoned Cockeral • Crested Barbet • Crimson breasted Shrik BooBoo • Golden weaver • Guinea Fowl w/ blue heads • Marshall Eagle • Saddle billed Heron • Woodland Kingfisher